In 2023, we designed a speed hold with children in mind. But a speed competition needs an official route! Originally the idea was to leave the route design open, but after trying that out in several competitions, the FFME (French climbing federation) decided to standardise the setting, as for the adult version .
A little history2004 : Jacky Godoffe designed the first speed route with a single model of hand hold (6B grade). It soon became the benchmark, with seniors setting one world record after another. 2023 : Artline, in partnership with the FFME, created the speed hold for children. It copies the adult version but is smaller and has more pronounced, slimmer grips. 2024 : the official youth speed route was introduced at the U12-U14 French championships hosted by the Devers Troyes club. |
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It is 8 metres high with a 5° angle, comprising 12 hand holds and 4 foot holds. The layout is similar to the official senior route but is shorter and the holds are closer together to suit smaller climbers.
The diagram below shows the senior holds in red and the youth holds in blue. As is shown, the two routes can be set side by side on the same wall.
Using similar holds on a similar layout helps the youth categories prepare for the senior route, improving their speed, motricity and coordination so they can be tomorrow’s champions!
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